Twenty-Seven Names
With the tough army boots, pretty broderie anglaise, floaty chiffon dresses, and ripped stockings; the Twenty-Seven Names autumn collection walked a fine line between good and bad, innocent and rebel.

The collection could have stepped right out of Woodstock, with obvious influences drawn from the mods and the beatniks, war and peace and Vanessa Beecroft's eerie human-doll installations.

There were cute leather coin pouches swinging from the models necks, John Lennon's classic round sunglasses, cosy cream cardies wrapped over sheer chiffon dresses, cream wool bodysuits layered over crisp white shirts; all teamed with don't-mess-with-me black army boots.

The boys weren't overlooked either; they looked exactly how you'd wish your boyfriend would dress. Think a little bit smart, with mod suit pants, Beatles blazers and silk waistcoats, then a little bit punk when teamed with "yes no" peace tees, bomber jackets and army-style parkers.

It's the sort of nonchalant, "roll out of bed for an early Sunday coffee" look that a lot of designers struggle to pull off; these guys nailed it effortlessly.

Stockists: www.twentysevennames.co.nz/

Cybèle
Practising her signature brand of printed silk dresses, Cybèle Wiren kicked off the week replacing her garish bright colours of seasons past with a more muted palette, focusing instead on the ever-wearable black, injected with small punches of red, forest green and apricot.

Although the lovely silk prints remained (this year, the recurring motif was a lily, appearing as panelled fluted shapes on hems, necklines and sleeves), it made for an autumn collection more sensuous and dramatic — and more mature in feeling than her recent efforts.

The dress-heavy collection was packed with fluid silk pieces cunningly cut to drape beautifully, with their chiffon pleats and panels echoing the moth wings that backlit the runway. It's the kind of cocktail dress every body-conscious woman dreams about.

While the delicate, smoky blue cape dress and the nude turtleneck body-con were thrown in for the braver — and presumably younger Cybèle fans — overall, this was Cybèle at her modern, mature best.

Stockists: www.cybele.co.nz

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